Thinning Paint

[Briggsy]

Hi All,

Just a quick question, would you say as a general rule that all paints, accept washes, need to be thinned with water before applying to the module?

So if your adding layers or detail you should wash the brush slightly with water, remove the excess on a tissue and take the paint from inside the lid and apply?

Thanks

[IBBoard]

I'd definitely say that the new pots need thinning before use (anything in a dumpy pot with shiny plastic sides), but if you get hold of older paints or other brands then it can vary (I've got paints that I can get away without thinning). In general, though, it is advisable to thin paints, if only because accidentally making it a little too thin just requires an extra coat, where as accidentally applying it too thickly is more difficult to correct.

As for how to do it, it depends. A white tile is good (if you have one lying around), or I've used a CD jewel case over a bit of white paper, or if you've got money to burn then GW do a shield-shaped pallet (or most arts and crafts shops will sell conventional ones cheaper - ditto for "accessories", really). Put some paint on your pallet and water it down there. I normally load the brush with water, deposit the water next to the paint, then dry the brush to make sure paint doesn't shoot up the bristles, then mix.

The alternative (bad habit) way is to put the water into the middle of the lid of the pot. It is quicker, means you don't need a pallet and stops you leaving unused paint on a surface to dry (which is why I do it a lot) but it does mean that you can't see the consistency as well and that you're mixing it in the pot, so you may over-water the entire pot with time. Given the state that my Bleached Bone paint was in (i.e. drying out and thickening to gloop within a couple of weeks) then that last item wasn't always a problem for me, though!

As you worked out, washes don't need to be watered down (although they can be for some effects - like getting a lighter wash on High Elf armour so that it keeps more of its shine, but still gets shaded in the creases).

[Briggsy]

Thanks mate, that's great, I did buy a GW pallet and I will do as you advised, but probably test on a white card or something first.

Thanks again.

[IBBoard]

Card isn't quite as good, since it will absorb the moisture from the paint and dry it out on your "pallet" quicker. I found the CD jewel case lid quite serviceable, but you need the white paper underneath it to get an impression of the true colour (otherwise you just get everything tinted brown if you're using the painting station).

*checks GW website and Google shopping* Okay, the GW pallet isn't as bad as I expected at £3, but you can get normal artist's pallets for under £1 from various places. There was a guy who ran a model shop in Hereford who stocked the models and paints, but steadfastly refused to stock the tools as he felt they were over-priced. If you haven't seen it already then check out GW on a Budget for more money-saving pointers in what can be an expensive hobby There are a couple of topics lying around the place about it as well, but that's all a different topic.

[Briggsy]

ok thanks

[Briggsy]

Hi IBBoard,

So you recommend using a CD case to test thickness of paint?

Thanks

[snowblizz]

Hi IBBoard,

So you recommend using a CD case to test thickness of paint?

Thanks

If you already have GW's pallet then that's not really necessary. That's what the pallet is for

[Briggsy]

LOL, OK, thanks mate

[IBBoard]

As Snowblizz said, the CD case is just a cheaper and more readily available alternative (especially for computer geeks who have stacks of them lying around!)